Planning to Travel Part II: Europe

Are you going to Europe? Lucky you! I have only gone once in summer, and it was a different experience. If you can, go off-season. If you can't, then the planning will be even that more important. Regardless, it will be amazing. Let's make a plan:

First, check out the general location info for each city you will visit (what to do/basic tips/weather). Because you might not know what is there... okay, so you may know that Milan has the Last Supper. But do you know you can walk from the Duomo (cathedral) through the Galleria (glass arcaded shopping street) to La Scala, the famous opera house? But did you know you have to stop at the bull halfway through to spin a few times on his, uh, parts? Do you know that when you're there the cheapest yummy is the panzerotti at Luini? You would if you checked out the city online. Google it. Use Rick Steves. Frommers. Slow Travel. Check out the guidebooks at Barnes & Noble -- if you find one you like, buy it. You can tear out the sections you like and bring them with you.

Next, look at what there is to do and make a list of what you want to do, in order of greatest importance. Then make a sample itinerary based on the time you have -- basically, what stuff can you feasible do with the time you have? Factor in travel time, amount of time at each site, waiting time if there will be lines. I try to get a map of the city online so I can coordinate activities by zone. It saves time and cab fare if you can cluster activities. Go ahead and factor in pit stops at this time. You'll need a plan for finding restrooms. Museums are always good. Most restaurants will not have them, but the American ones often do.

Then, when you know what you'll be doing, double check the opening/closing times and holiday/festival dates to make sure what you want to do will be open when you get there. Don't forget that in many countries things will close mid-afternoon. It's not as prevalent as it used to be, but you need to check it out. Churches don't stay open all day and night. Holidays exist that we don't know about, especially in Italy, where there are a billion feast days we don't celebrate. If something is closed the day you have planned, rework the plan and see if you can fit it in the next day. Also note that there is often a free day for museums. Note that it will be especially crowded on that day. And having been to the Vatican museums on a normal day, I don't think I'd want to be there on a "busy" day.

Put the dates and times on your itinerary. I often have two pages: one is a calendar type with the day's schedule and basic information such as what time we'll do each activity and how to get there. The second has more complete information such as full schedules/addresses/restaurant specialties for referance. This helps me know the consequences when I want to deviate from the plan. For example, when John and I were in New York last year it was raining so we nixed plans for Bryant Park and went to the Metropolitan museum. However, I neglected to check the full day/time information for the museum and we had only been there for about 1/2 and hour when they announced the regular, early, closing time in 15 minutes. (Oh, so that's why I planned this activity the next day).

Having complete contact information also helps if you've deviated from the plan and are now going to be finding a place from a different location than originally planned. (Because I plan the route from place to place). If I don't have the address to my little economical hotel with me, only instructions to take so and so bus from outside the Forum, I won't be able to find the hotel from anywhere else. Well, I could probably do it. Because I'm not afraid to ask. And since I speak Italian. But you'd be in a spot of trouble. I'm sure some nice person would get you there eventually. My seventh grade German was enough to find the church I wanted in Zurich... the one we'd passed twice. Old people are nice.

Speaking of hotels, you need to get your reservations ASAP, if you haven't already. I have had mixed success with Rick Steves' hotel recommendations, and if you follow them, aim high. The good places book up fast in high season. I don't know if there are good "deals" in Rome... or London. Everyone wants to go there and so it costs a bit more. I'm not very particular. I've stayed in everything from five star hotel(lifestyles of the rich and famous, thanks to traveling husband's points) to hostel. And a hotel run by nuns. They were all clean and safe, and that's what counts. But European bathrooms are foreign and often smaller than some people are used to. And your bath may be yours alone, but it may be across the hall from you. Doesn't bother me so much, but my Dad didn't like it. Bigger hotels that cater to business people are usually more comparable to an American hotel room. But rooms for four can be hard to come by. Book early.

Two years ago when Katie and I met my parents in Rome we rented an apartment. It was fantastic, although the location was not as central as I would recommend. With the difficulty in finding larger rooms in Europe I highly recommend checking out apartment rentals. And the cost may be comparable to what two rooms would be in a hotel. There are many websites devoted to them with pictures and sometimes reviews, too. Katie loved having her own room. I liked being able to shop and have breakfast make pasta with local ingredients. But even if you don't cook, the quiet and space to spread out after traveling together is wonderful. I would do it again.

Once I have my plan of activities by day I go back and research transportation options (train/subway/cab/bus) and whether several day passes or individual tickets will be better. In Europe kids of a certain age often travel free with adults on public transportation. I used the metro a bit in Rome, but it isn't as helpful as some other cities I've visited. London's tube system is fantastic -- clear signs, and of course all in English. And it is the fastest way to get across trafficky London. For Rome, for our location near the Vatican, the buses were very helpful. But you have to know where you are going and stay very alert. Pickpockets dress like businessmen these days. Or so I've heard. I don't know that I'd recommend buses to the uninitiated. But for adventurous travelers, especially those who use public transportation in their city at home, they can be faster and more convenient than other transportation options. And sometimes the unusual options are the most fun. I have very fond memories of me and my sister-in-law hopping into a pedicab after the theatre and zooming through London at night.

Taxis are not too hard to come by in Rome... and depending on who you are traveling with, the convenience and foot resting is worth the extra money. (But if you are in Florence, unless you are going across the entire city or to/from the train station, just walk.) If you are driving to a city in Italy, something I've never done, you would want to check out where you can park your car legally and long-term. I think parking it somewhere safe on the edge of the city and using public transportation is what I'd do in most of Europe. Even if you are used to driving there. Because it is a hassle to figure out little streets, and finding parking can be impossible. And then what if you come back to the car and find a boot on the tire? Nightmare. We have friends who love a hotel in Rome that has an interior courtyard for cars. Check out your options.

Oh, and check to see if your cell phone will work in Europe. Get it set so you can use it and your trip could be so much easier. If you have more than one in your group, you'll be able to separate and meet up easily. Find the numbers for cabs in the cities you will visit in case you need to call one. Sometimes they are hard to find. But also know that in some cities if one is called, they start charging on the route to you as well as once you are picked up. I didn't realize this. I think maybe this misunderstanding is why people think cabbies are scamming them. And don't get into unauthorized cabs. They will scam you.

I'm a bit crazed about the transportation scheuling -- I print out maps and familiarize myself with them, I look up the site I will be, where I am going next, and how to get there. I put the correct bus/subway line, number, and direction in my itinerary. One reason is so I don't waste time figuring it out while I am there. Because that is a crime. The second reason is so I don't stand around in all my tourist glory asking to be pickpocketed. It has never happened to me, but a swarm of paper-wielding gypsies in Florence almost got my Dad's wallet (I alerted him to not just pay attention but to get his hand on his wallet -- they already know where it is, so it's not like you are tipping them off -- they won't take it blatantly from you) and my father-in-law got his lifted in Paris last week. Be vigilant! They are good. Don't make yourself more of a target standing around with a map looking confused.

I wear a dorky moneybelt under my clothes when I am in Europe. It's true. It has a zipper at the top so I can actually get into it as easily as it is to tuck a shirt into jeans. I carry only my local transport tickets and a day's worth (or half a day) of money in my wallet or pocket. My passport, credit cards, ATM card and a sheet I photocopied with the images of my cards, front and back with contact information, are tucked away. It's just easier not to worry. If I am going to pay at a restaurant or hotel or whatever with a card I discreetly get the card out and tuck it back away safely before re-entering the street/station/etc. Better safe than sorry. Once an Italian caught me tucking my Amex into the belt under my skirtband, smiled, and said they do the same when they are traveling. I am not too proud to do it. And I never worry.

I always get some local cash before I go from my bank (order it ahead of time unless you are close to a big city branch) and use the ATM wherever you travel for more. I use cash more there than here so I also plan for ATM use throughout the trip. Be careful about the locations you use, and be discreet.

One thing I'm not good about is checking for consulate info. I just read in the paper and it's a good idea to register with them so they know you are in the city, in case you need to be contacted, but also have the adress and phone number in your itinerary should you need assistance. Because you never know...

I pack light. Really light. Because I have never driven, and always use public transportation, I have to lug my stuff. I use a carry-on sized bag and a large purse or tote bag over my shoulder. I take 1 pair of jeans and 1-2 pairs black pants in the winter; at least one pair of slacks and some skirts in the summer and several tops and a light jacket or sweater to layer that can be wrapped around my waist. I was unprepared for the cold we found in London in June, and have photos of me and Katie bundled in the warmest clothes we had -- pants, light jackets and the pashminas I always carry for cold planes and to add color to my basic wardrobe. Glad I had two scarves with me. But in sandals our toes were freezing. I'd try to bring at least a ballet flat next time. I try to find the most comfortable shoes that are not sneakers -- boots in winter and one other, sandals and one other in summer. And I tuck in flip flops because I have shower issues. It's coordinated so it all goes together. Don't wear shorts in Italy. Capri pants are fine, but skirts are cooler for summer, and you'll look nicer and be treated better. I take A-line skirts with stretch (more comfy and reduced wrinkling) or skirts meant to look crinkly. Because I cram my little case as full as I can.

I always travel with a purse or tote bag with strap big enough to put over my shoulder. It has to be big enough for a water bottle, my itinerary, map, travel umbrella if necessary, and room for small purchases. My girls have little bags with long straps to wear across their body that they keep paper and pens in, little snacks, and water. The strap has to be that long so they can wear it and forget about it rather than forget it somewhere. Katie wore hers all over London, Florence, and Rome. She was a champion traveler. I don't know when I've ever been so proud.

Make the plan. Work the plan. Be the plan.

And have fun.